Plotline AI Review: I Let AI Edit a Wedding Video & the Results SHOCKED Me

Plotline AI Review: I Let AI Edit a Wedding Video & the Results SHOCKED Me

The most time-consuming part of creating any wedding film is editing.

You can film a wedding in one day. Editing it? That can take days, sometimes weeks. And as someone who has edited literally hundreds of wedding films, I can confidently say most of your editing time is spent discovering and shaping the story.

You are digging through ceremony audio, the officiant’s message, vows, toasts, letters, interviews, and all of those emotional in-between moments. You sit there, headphones on, scrubbing through hours of A-roll trying to find the heart of the day.

It is one of the most creative parts of editing.

It is also one of the most time-consuming.

But what if there was a tool that could listen to all of that for you, identify the most powerful moments, and assemble them into a structured story on your timeline?

That tool exists.

It’s called Plotline.

My name is Matt Johnson, and today I want to walk you through what Plotline does, how well it works, and yes, talk about the elephant in the room: it uses AI. I have pushed this further before too, and made an entirely AI generated wedding video to see where it fell apart.

And anytime you say “AI” in a creative space, people have opinions.

For the record, this is not sponsored. Plotline was created by my friend Maclean Carlson of Hello Tomorrow Films, one of the most talented wedding filmmakers I know. He built it because he wanted to save time on one of the most exhausting parts of wedding editing: story assembly.

But, if you signup for Plotline using this affiliate link, I will get a small commission, plus you can use the coupon code “WHOISMATT” for 30% off your first 3 months.

So let’s break it down.


How Plotline Works

For this test, I used DaVinci Resolve, but Plotline works with all major editing platforms including Adobe Premiere and Final Cut.

Here’s the basic workflow:

  1. Import and sync all your footage.
  2. Build a timeline with your full A-roll: letters, ceremony, vows, toasts, etc.
  3. Export an FCPXML file of that timeline.
  4. Export a full MP3 of the timeline audio.
  5. Upload both files to Plotline.

That’s it.

Once uploaded, Plotline analyzes the audio, transcribes everything, combines that with your XML data, and starts building a story.

Maclean confirmed that your files are not used to train AI models. They remain private.


Speaker Detection and Transcripts

Once processing is complete, you get a full transcript with labeled speakers.

You can manually name them, or you can hit “Identify Speakers” and let the AI do it. It’s impressively accurate.

From there, you move into the real magic: the Story Script.


AI Story Generation

Click “Create Story Script” and you’ll be asked a few questions:

  • Short, medium, or long film?
  • High dialogue or minimal dialogue?
  • Which themes should be emphasized?
  • Which moments are must-include or exclude?
  • Do certain speakers need guaranteed segments?

You can even weight the edit toward vows, toasts, ceremony, reception, or write a custom focus.

And yes, you can automatically remove things like:

  • Legal formalities
  • DJ filler chatter
  • “For those of you who don’t know me…”

Once you hit generate, it takes about 45–60 seconds.

Then you’re presented with a fully structured story script, broken into emotional beats with clear narrative flow.

Hook.
Origins.
Development.
Emotional peaks.
Resolution.

You can preview the audio, tweak settings, regenerate, or export an XML and drop it directly back into your editing software.

And just like that, you have a fully assembled A-roll timeline.

It honestly feels like magic.


Is It Actually Good?

This is the real question.

Storytelling is subjective. But from a quality standpoint, I was impressed.

The AI built a competent, emotionally structured story that absolutely would work for a wedding film. It understood tone. It identified recurring motifs. It surfaced powerful lines.

Maclean has said it’s trained on a large dataset of well-edited wedding films, and it shows. It understands pacing and narrative arcs in a way that feels intentional.

What really stood out to me is how much control you have. You are not just pressing a button and accepting whatever it spits out. You can heavily tailor the story to your style.

Can it fully edit your film?

No.

It only handles the A-roll story assembly.

You still need to:

  • Add music
  • Mix audio
  • Layer B-roll
  • Color grade
  • Shape pacing
  • Fine-tune emotional beats

There are still hours of creative work left.

But Plotline removes a massive chunk of the initial heavy lifting.


The AI Debate

Now let’s talk about the controversial part.

AI.

Some people will love this. Others will hate it.

I can see high-volume wedding filmmakers using Plotline to dramatically speed up their workflow and deliver films faster.

I can see wedding photographers moving into video using this as a bridge, since editing audio-driven stories is very different from editing still images.

I can see filmmakers who primarily use music in their edits using Plotline to finally explore story-driven films.

But I can also see more established wedding filmmakers being frustrated.

Because discovering and structuring the story is arguably the most creative part of the edit.

Yes, it is time-consuming.
Yes, it is exhausting.
But it is deeply artistic.

I think this debate really comes down to philosophy.

Some people approach wedding filmmaking as a business. Efficiency matters. Speed matters. Throughput matters.

Others approach it as art. They would never relinquish creative control over story structure to AI.

Personally?

I love the editing process. Discovering the story is my favorite part.

So I don’t see myself using Plotline in my workflow.

But that doesn’t mean it’s bad. It just means it doesn’t align with how I enjoy creating.

There are two sides to AI right now.

There’s generative AI that creates art from text prompts, trained on millions of artists’ work. That understandably upsets many creatives.

Then there are AI tools that save time on tedious tasks. Think of the auto audio mixer in DaVinci Resolve. It levels everything in seconds instead of hours.

Plotline feels much closer to that second category.

It’s not replacing your creativity.
It’s compressing busy work.

But I genuinely want to know what you think.

Would you use it?
Do you think it could build a wedding story better than you?
Where do you fall on the AI spectrum?

You can check out Plotline and use coupon code “WhoisMatt” to save 30% off your first three months.

I’d love to hear your thoughts.

Thanks so much for reading, and have a great day.

Sony A7S III Firmware 5.0 Update: What’s New and Should You Upgrade?

Sony A7S III Firmware 5.0 Update: What’s New and Should You Upgrade?

Sony just made the a7siii better with firmware version 5.0!

We are talking big improvements to vertical filmmaking, autofocus, and more! Lets go through all of them!

But before we jump in, quick plug. If you want to fully optimize your Sony camera for fast filmmaking, I have a settings preset file that gives you the absolute best filmmaking setup for the a7S III. I have tested it and confirmed it works perfectly with firmware version 5.0. You can download it for free and install it directly on your camera.

Alright, let’s dive into the firmware updates.

Vertical Menu Display

The first thing you’ll notice after updating to firmware 5.0 is the new vertical display. As soon as you rotate the camera vertically, the menus and settings automatically rotate with it.

This is fantastic news if you’re filming vertical video. No more awkwardly tilting your head sideways just to check your settings. Everything stays oriented correctly, and it honestly works really well.

Sony, you know what else would work really well?!

Open gate.

Sadly, that’s still not here. I doubt we’ll see it until an a7S IV or maybe an FX3 Mark II. I’ve already made videos talking about when those cameras might be released, if you want to go down that rabbit hole.

New Autofocus Options: Spot XL and Custom AF Boxes

The next two updates live in roughly the same menu, so we’ll bundle them together.

First, Sony added a new spot focus size option called Spot XL. If you use spot focus but have always been annoyed by how small the focus box could get, congratulations. You now have an extra large option.

But maybe you’re thinking, that’s cool, but what if I need something even bigger? Or smaller? Or some weird custom shape that I want to keep in focus?

That’s where the second autofocus update comes in, and honestly, this one is even better.

Sony added three custom autofocus boxes that you can create yourself. You can make them as large or as small as you want and place them anywhere on the screen.

I really love this feature. I’ll be honest, I don’t use spot focus very often, but the ability to fully customize it actually makes me want to use it more.

And if you’re a spot focus lover, I know you’re out there, you weirdo, you’re going to love this update.

New Accessibility Feature: Enlarged Menus

Sony also added a new accessibility feature, and I’m always a big fan of companies doing this.

There is now an option to enlarge the screen display on the a7S III, which makes menu text larger and easier to read. It’s a simple feature, but it can make a big difference for a lot of people.

Big thumbs up to Sony for including this!

Individual Memory Card Recording Time Display

Next up is a smaller update, but arguably one of the most requested ones. And it’s kind of weird.

Sony added back a feature that existed in earlier firmware, disappeared in versions 3.0 and 4.0, and has now returned in 5.0.

If you’re recording video using dual memory cards, the camera will now show you the remaining recording time for each card individually.

In firmware versions 3.0 and 4.0, it only showed a combined remaining time for both cards. Now you can see exactly how much space is left on each card, which is way more useful.

So… thanks, Sony?

I’m not sure if we should be thanking them for adding something back that was already there, but hey, at least it’s back now. It’s kind of like if Apple removed the headphone jack and then later said just kidding, you can have it again. That would be wild, right? Right…

USB Streaming and Webcam Support

We’re not done yet! The a7S III now supports USB streaming, meaning you can use it as a webcam.

All you have to do is go into the setup menu, enable USB streaming, connect the camera to your computer, and it should just work.

If it doesn’t work for you, it’s probably because you secretly like Nikon, and Sony somehow knows that you’ve been adapting E-mount lenses to other cameras. They’re very disappointed in you.

Speaking of which, BIG Update For Sony A7S III Is Here For Filmmakers! is worth a look too.

Digital Signature for Video Authentication

This next update is going to be incredibly exciting for roughly seven people, but it’s actually pretty interesting.

Sony added a digital signature feature for video. No, you’re not signing your camera like Peter McKinnon signing someone’s gear at NAB. True story, I watched that happen in 2019. Wild moment.

This digital signature is used to verify that a video was actually recorded with your camera and not generated or altered by AI. Considering how realistic AI video is getting, this is a genuinely useful feature.

Being able to prove that a moment really happened and was captured with a real camera is going to matter more and more moving forward, and I’m glad Sony is thinking ahead here.

Bug Fixes and Stability Improvements

Yes, there are bug fixes, baby!

Sony fixed an audio recording bug where the camera could tell you it was not recording audio even though it actually was. That could definitely lead to some awkward clips, so I’m very glad that one got fixed.

Sony also mentioned general operational stability improvements. That usually means they fixed a few bugs behind the scenes. We may never know exactly what changed, but more stability is always welcome.

Should You Update to Firmware 5.0?

I’ve had a lot of people ask two main questions.

First: will updating delete all of your custom settings?

The good news is no, as long as you’re updating from firmware version 3.0 or newer. Since Sony moved to updating via memory card, your settings will stay intact.

Second: should you even update at all?

If you’re nervous, it’s totally fine to wait a month and see if any bugs pop up. Personally, I haven’t experienced any issues with firmware 5.0 so far, but it also hasn’t been out that long.

Look at the features Sony added and decide for yourself if any of them matter to your workflow. If not, you can stay on your current firmware and be completely fine. You don’t have to update just because a new version exists.

That said, if you want a guaranteed, bug-free way to dramatically improve your footage quality and the speed at which you can film, you should absolutely check out my free a7S III settings preset.

You can download it, install it on your camera, and immediately have everything optimized for fast filmmaking.

Feeling brave? You can download the latest a7S III firmware here. Good luck, and reach out if you need help with anything filmmaking!

Budget Monitor Buying Guide 2026 – Video Editing, Photo Editing, & Gaming Under $500

Budget Monitor Buying Guide 2026 - Video Editing, Photo Editing, & Gaming Under $500

If you’re looking to buy a budget monitor for video editing, photo editing, and gaming, you’re in the right place. I’ve done the research for you and put together this buyer’s guide to help you find the perfect monitor without blowing your budget.

Every monitor on this list is $500 or less. Many of them are a lot less. I focused heavily on color accuracy, which is critical for video and photo editing, while also prioritizing high refresh rate screens so you can game at high frame rates.

To save you time, I’ve linked all of these monitors where I found them at the cheapest prices. Also, just to be clear, this is not a paid or sponsored post. None of these companies paid to be here. I do have full reviews of many of these monitors on my YouTube channel though, so consider subscribing if you want deeper dives.

We’re starting with the cheapest option and working our way up to the most expensive.

The Cheapest Option That Still Gets the Job Done

If you’re on a very tight budget but still want something color accurate with a high refresh rate, take a look at the Dell S2425H.

This monitor is about as budget as it gets. At the time of recording, it was around $109. For that price, you’re getting a 24-inch 1080p display that covers 99% of the sRGB and Rec.709 color spaces. That means it’s surprisingly color accurate.

Even better, Dell somehow squeezed a 100Hz panel into this monitor. If you want to game at up to 100fps, it handles that just fine. Yes, it’s only 1080p, but for the price, it’s an incredible value.

A Small Price Jump for a Big Refresh Rate Upgrade

For about $30 more, Dell offers another option, the Dell S2425HSM. Same size, same 1080p resolution, and the same 99% sRGB and Rec.709 coverage.

The upgrade here is simple but meaningful. You get a 144Hz panel. That’s it. But if you care about gaming performance, that extra smoothness is absolutely worth it.

If you want a cheap, color accurate monitor with a higher refresh rate, this is a solid step up.

Bigger Screen and Faster Performance

Next up is the BenQ EX271, and honestly, this is where things start getting interesting.

The screen size jumps from 24 inches to 27 inches, which makes a noticeable difference for editing. It’s still 1080p, but it now covers 100% sRGB and Rec.709, plus 95% DCI-P3. That wider color gamut makes it much better for color grading and working with HDR or RAW footage.

For gaming, it gets even better. This monitor has a 180Hz refresh rate, which is insanely fast for the price.

If your budget is tight, stick with one of the Dell options. But if you can spend a bit more, the larger screen alone makes this BenQ worth it.

The Budget Unicorn Monitor

Now we need to talk about one of the most impressive monitors on this entire list. The AOC Q27G40XMN.

This is a 27-inch monitor with a big jump in resolution, moving from 1080p up to 1440p. Everything looks sharper. Editing feels better. Gaming looks crisper.

The real magic here is the panel. It keeps the fast 180Hz refresh rate but adds a mini LED backlight. That means much better contrast, brighter highlights, and deeper shadows. Mini LED is still relatively new tech, so seeing it at this price is honestly shocking.

Color performance is excellent. You get 100% DCI-P3, 100% sRGB and Rec.709, and 95% AdobeRGB. That makes this monitor especially strong for photo editing.

There are two downsides you should know about. First, it uses a VA panel. VA panels do not have viewing angles as good as IPS, so you’ll want to sit directly in front of it while editing. Second, it’s mostly color accurate out of the box, but I highly recommend using a color calibrator to dial it in perfectly.

Also worth noting, in the US this monitor is only available at Best Buy. Internationally, it’s available on Amazon.

At around $230, this monitor feels like a unicorn.

If You Want IPS Instead of VA

If you’re telling me you don’t want a VA panel and you’re willing to spend about $10 more, take a look at the BenQ EX271Q.

This monitor is very similar to the earlier BenQ, but now you get a 1440p resolution. It still has a 180Hz refresh rate, 95% DCI-P3, and 100% sRGB and Rec.709.

It’s not as exciting as the AOC mini LED option, but if IPS is important to you, this is a solid alternative.

If you’re curious what I was recommending back then, I’ve still got Budget Monitors for Video Editing & Gaming Buyer’s Guide 2022 and An Ultrawide Monitor PERFECT For Video Editing & Gaming! (Dell U4025QW Review).

The Cheapest OLED Monitor You Can Buy

Now we’re jumping up in price, but stay with me, because this is special.

If you have around $419 to spend, the AOC Q27G4ZD is hands down the monitor I would buy.

This is a 27-inch, 1440p OLED monitor. OLED means unlimited contrast, perfect blacks, and incredible color. For gaming, it has a 240Hz refresh rate, which is the fastest on this list.

For editing, it’s on another level. You get 99% DCI-P3, 142% sRGB and Rec.709, and 99% AdobeRGB. This is world-class color accuracy.

Yes, there is a newer version of this monitor, but it uses the exact same OLED panel. You’re not gaining image quality by spending more, so my recommendation is to save the money and buy this one.

At this price, it’s absurdly good.

Budget 4K Monitors Under $500

If you need 4K resolution for editing or gaming, there are some trade-offs under $500. There’s no OLED. No mini LED. But there are still good options.

The ASUS ProArt PA279CRV is a strong editing-focused monitor. It offers 100% sRGB and Rec.709, 99% DCI-P3, and 99% AdobeRGB. Color accuracy is excellent.

The downside is gaming performance. You’re limited to a 60Hz panel. It does support VRR, but that’s about it.

If you edit far more than you game, this is still a great choice.

Another option is a BenQ PD2706U 4K monitor that regularly sells for $499 but often drops to around $399. It’s very similar to the ASUS in terms of color accuracy, but also limited to 60Hz with no VRR. It’s only on this list because of the sale price.

The One 4K Monitor That Does It All

If you want 4K, good color accuracy, and high refresh rate gaming, there is one option.

The BenQ EX271U is a 27-inch 4K monitor with 95% DCI-P3 coverage and a 165Hz refresh rate. It’s normally $600, but if you can find it on sale around $440, it becomes an easy recommendation.

If you see it discounted, grab it.

My Final Recommendations

Let’s simplify everything.

If you are on a tight budget, buy the AOC Q27G40XMN. At around $230, it delivers incredible color accuracy, mini LED contrast, and a 180Hz refresh rate. Pair it with a color calibrator and you will love it.

If you want the absolute best monitor under $500, get the AOC Q27G4ZD OLED. Perfect blacks, insane color accuracy, and a 240Hz refresh rate. It punches so far above its price it’s ridiculous.

Just buy it. Stop thinking about it.

If you want to see a higher-end version of this buyer’s guide with a $1,000 budget or more, let me know in the video comments. Like the video, subscribe, and check out my free “Edit Videos Like a Pro” guide linked below. It’s quick to read and will instantly improve your editing.

Thanks for reading, and have a great day.

How To EASILY Film in RED RAW With The Nikon ZR

How To EASILY Film in RED RAW With The Nikon ZR

I’m about to show you how to easily film in RED RAW with the Nikon ZR. To save you some time, check out my RAW filmmaking cheat sheet that shows all of the best settings in one easy place, so you can reference it whenever you need.

And if you want help getting amazing-looking colors from your RED RAW footage, I also have a set of color presets that work fantastically with RED RAW. I’ll link those as well so you can check them out.

Why Settings Still Matter When Shooting RAW

When it comes to filming in RED RAW, you might think the settings you choose on the Nikon ZR aren’t that important. After all, you’re shooting RAW, right? You can just fix everything in post.

Unfortunately, that’s not true.

RAW video is very forgiving, and RED RAW in particular is one of the easiest RAW formats to work with. It gives you incredible control over exposure and color. But that doesn’t mean you can just switch the camera to RAW, hit record, and magically get gorgeous footage.

There are still several key settings you need to dial in to make your footage look its best, and I’m going to walk you through how to do that quickly and easily.

Enabling RED RAW on the Nikon ZR

Let’s start with the basics.

Grab your Nikon ZR, open the menu, go to the video camera icon, and set the video file type to R3D NE 12-bit in LOG3G10. This enables RED RAW recording in log, which gives you a very flat and desaturated image.

That flat image is exactly what we want for maximum flexibility in post.

Making RED RAW Easier to Work With Using View Assist

Next, we want to make filming in RED RAW as easy as possible. The Nikon ZR gives you some excellent tools to help with this.

The first thing you should enable is View Assist. This removes the super flat log preview and applies a 3D LUT so you see a more saturated and contrasty image on the camera screen.

Important reminder: this LUT is only for monitoring. Your footage is still recorded in flat log and will need to be color graded later.

Turning on View Assist also affects how some of the exposure tools behave, which is why I strongly recommend enabling it. That said, if you don’t want to use it, that’s okay. I’ll explain how exposure works without it as well.

To quickly enable View Assist, press the Assist Display button in the bottom right of the screen, then tap the Assist button in the bottom middle. Instantly, your footage becomes much easier to judge.

Choosing the Correct Base ISO

Now that the image looks better, you might think you’re ready to hit record. But before you do, we need to talk about exposure tools.

First, some ground rules.

When filming in R3D, I recommend always starting by setting your ISO to one of the camera’s two base ISOs: ISO 800 or ISO 6400.

The Nikon ZR makes this easy. Press the ISO button in the bottom left of the screen, and you can toggle between the low and high base ISOs.

If you’re filming in bright conditions, like outdoors in daylight, use ISO 800. If you’re filming in darker environments, like an evening wedding reception, use ISO 6400.

Using these base ISOs gives you the cleanest image with the least amount of noise.

You might be thinking, “Matt, why does ISO matter if I’m filming RAW and can change it later?”

Great question. The answer has everything to do with zebras.

Setting Up Zebras Correctly

Zebras are those black-and-white lines that appear on overexposed areas of your image. If you see them, it means parts of your image are too bright and unrecoverable.

You want zebras enabled almost all the time when filming.

To set them up properly, open the menu, go to the pencil icon, Video, G16, and select Zebra Pattern.

Set the highlight threshold to 245, which is where highlights start to clip when using View Assist.

For midtone range, set the value to 130 with a range of plus or minus 15. Shoutout to Calen Rhome from Gamut for testing the camera and figuring this out.

Once set, press OK and exit the menu.

To toggle zebras on and off, tap the Assist Display button again and then tap the Zebra Pattern button. The first tap enables midtone zebras, and the second tap enables highlight zebras.

Why Base ISO Matters for Zebras

Here’s why sticking to base ISO is so important.

If you change the ISO away from the base values, the zebra levels also change. That means the camera can no longer accurately tell you when highlights are clipping unless you manually adjust zebra values.

Nikon even provides a PDF chart showing the correct zebra values for every ISO. You can download it from Nikon or from a mirror I’ve uploaded.

With View Assist enabled and ISO set to 800 or 6400, your zebras at 245 will be accurate. If you don’t use View Assist, you’ll want to lower zebras to around 180.

This is why I recommend base ISO whenever possible. It makes exposure faster and far less confusing.

Using Zebras to Expose Correctly

Now let’s tie everything together.

Set your Nikon ZR to RED RAW, choose one of the base ISOs, and enable highlight zebras. Adjust exposure using your aperture or an ND filter until highlight zebras just begin to appear, then back off slightly until they disappear.

Speaking of which, Nikon & Red Just Changed Video Cameras Forever, Nikon Is Buying RED Camera! – Here’s What It Means For Filmmakers, and RED & Nikon’s First Cameras Are Here! …With BIG Upgrades! are worth a look too.

This ensures you retain highlight detail while keeping shadows clean and noise-free. This is how you capture the maximum dynamic range the camera can offer.

Next, switch to midtone zebras and check skin tones. You want to see zebras appear on the side of the face where light is hitting. If you don’t, your image is either underexposed or overexposed.

This is a balancing act. You want properly exposed skin tones without blowing out bright backgrounds, so you’ll often toggle between highlight and midtone zebras to find the sweet spot.

Using the Waveform Monitor for Extra Accuracy

If you want even more confidence in your exposure, Nikon gives you another excellent tool: the waveform monitor.

To enable it, go to the menu, pencil icon, Video, G19, and set Brightness Information Display to WFM. Press right on the joystick to adjust size and position.

I recommend setting the waveform size to large and transparency to 3. The small version is just too tiny to be useful.

Back out of the menu, tap the Assist Display button, and enable the brightness info icon to turn on the waveform.

The waveform shows brightness values across the entire image. Dark areas sit lower, bright areas higher, and the image is mapped horizontally across the display.

The Firmware 1.10 Waveform Upgrade

Make sure your Nikon ZR is updated to firmware 1.10 or newer. This update added a crucial feature to the waveform monitor: a red clipping line.

If any part of the waveform goes above this red line, that area is clipped and unrecoverable. Even better, this clipping line automatically adjusts based on ISO, so it’s always accurate.

When filming RED RAW, keep in mind that exposure values are compressed downward. Properly exposed skin tones should sit about ⅓ to ½ of the way above the shadow line on the waveform.

If you hit that range, your footage will look fantastic.

The Complete RED RAW Workflow

Here’s the full workflow from start to finish.

Set ISO to 800 or 6400. Enable highlight zebras. Adjust exposure until zebras just appear, then back off slightly. Switch to midtone zebras and confirm they appear on skin tones. Use the waveform to double check skin tones sit about ⅓ to ½ above the shadow line. Finally, return to highlight zebras to make sure clipping is minimal.

This is the sweet spot of the Nikon ZR and where you’ll get the highest image quality and flexibility in color grading.

Final Thoughts

And that’s how you easily film RED RAW with the Nikon ZR!

Huge shoutout to Brandon Talbot for his helpful ZR videos that helped me confirm these settings.

If you want more videos about filmmaking, make sure to subscribe. Thanks so much for reading, and have a great day.

Xtra Atto Camera Settings That Make It Look Cinematic

Xtra Atto Camera Settings That Make It Look Cinematic

I’m a big fan of using action cameras to capture shots that would be difficult, risky, or straight-up impossible with a larger, more fragile camera.

I’ve used action cameras multiple times while filming weddings, especially when couples do something wild like extreme white water rafting the day before their ceremony, and the footage always ends up looking incredible. These cameras let you be creative without worrying about destroying thousands of dollars of gear.

Over the years, action cameras have gotten smaller, more capable, and more filmmaker-friendly, and this one is a little different. The Xtra Atto packs a surprising amount of power into a ridiculously small body.

But if you really want to unlock what this camera can do, especially for high-action filming like rafting, adventure sessions, or extreme activities, the settings matter. A lot.

Today, I’m going to share with you my fast filmmaking settings for the Atto!

The One Accessory You Actually Need

At first glance, the Atto looks like just a tiny little camera, and it is, but if you want to change settings or really control how it shoots, you’ll need the Vision Dock that comes with it.

This dock is a separate, multifunctional accessory that dramatically expands what the camera can do, and most importantly, it gives the Atto a touchscreen.

The camera magnetically attaches to the dock facing forward or backward, which makes it great for selfies or filming outward. On its own, the camera lasts about 90 minutes, but once you connect it to the Vision Dock, you get a massive 220 minutes of total recording time, which is nearly four hours without touching a wall outlet.

Even better, the dock can fast-charge the camera in about 40 minutes, which is huge if you’re filming all day.

One thing to note: the camera itself is waterproof up to 10 meters, but once you attach the dock, the setup becomes IPX4 splash resistant, not waterproof, so don’t take it underwater in that configuration.

The dock is also the main way you’ll adjust settings, and the good news is you don’t even need the camera attached to it. You can wirelessly preview your shot and change settings remotely, which makes setup fast and painless.

The Best Resolution and Frame Rate Settings

Despite weighing just 54 grams, the Xtra Atto has a 1/1.3-inch sensor, which is larger than most cameras in its class and comparable to much bigger action cameras. That translates to better image quality and better low-light performance in a tiny package.

The Atto can record 4K 10-bit video at up to 60 frames per second, and for action cameras, I think 4K60 is the sweet spot. Everything happens fast, and having the ability to slow footage down in post is incredibly valuable.

To enable it, swipe up from the bottom of the screen, swipe left until you’re at 4K resolution, then set the frame rate to 60fps.

If you’re willing to give up a little frame rate and want more flexibility in post, there’s another setting I really like. You can shoot 48fps in a 4:3 open format at 3840×2880, which gives you a lot more vertical room to reframe later. If maximum control is your goal, this is the setting I’d use.

Before moving on, make sure you also set the bitrate to High. Swipe down from the top, tap the settings icon, scroll to bitrate, and set it to high for the best quality.

Pre-Record: The Feature That Saves Shots

One of my favorite features on the Atto is pre-record, and it’s something that can completely save a shot.

When enabled, the camera continuously buffers footage up to five minutes before you ever press record. So if you’re filming someone fishing, waiting for a big moment, or tracking unpredictable action, you can press record after it happens and still capture the previous five minutes.

That means you don’t miss the shot and you don’t waste storage space.

Speaking of storage, the Atto includes 128GB of internal storage, which I love, and you can expand that with up to a 1TB microSD card using the Vision Dock.

It also supports gesture controls, so you can start recording by nodding your head if the camera is mounted on a hat, or by tapping it. No matter how you mount it, Xtra clearly designed this camera so you’re always able to start recording quickly.

The Best Color Mode for Filmmakers

Just like larger professional cameras, the Atto supports multiple color modes, including 8-bit, 10-bit, and a log profile called X-LOG.

If you want the most dynamic range and the most control in post, I highly recommend filming in X-LOG 10-bit.

To enable it, tap the settings button on the right side of the screen, turn on Pro mode, then tap the color option and select X-LOG 10-bit. While you’re there, you can also lock white balance and exposure, which is huge for consistent results.

All the footage you’ve seen here was colored using my own presets, which work great with both X-LOG and the standard color mode. I’ll link those below if you want to check them out.

Stabilization Settings That Actually Work

Because the Atto is so small, stabilization is critical, and thankfully, it offers two modes that are genuinely useful.

The first is Motion Master, which is ideal for POV shots where you want maximum smoothness, especially if the camera is mounted to your head or chest.

The second mode, and the one I prefer most of the time, is Tilt Guard. This mode not only stabilizes footage but also keeps the horizon level, which instantly makes shots look more professional.

A crooked horizon is one of the easiest ways to spot amateur footage. Tilt Guard does an excellent job of preventing that, even when the camera rotates, and in my testing, it works extremely well. For most situations, this is the mode I’d leave enabled.

Final Thoughts on the Xtra Atto

The Xtra Atto is an incredibly capable, ultra-compact camera. It has a lot of settings, but once you dial them in, the video quality you get out of something this small is seriously impressive.

If you want to capture action-heavy shots, dangerous angles, or moments you simply couldn’t film with a traditional camera, this is a fantastic tool to have in your kit.