This OLED Monitor CALIBRATES Itself?! Dell U3226Q Review

This OLED Monitor CALIBRATES Itself?! Dell U3226Q Review

Dell just released the dream monitor for video editors. It isn’t cheap, but it checks literally every single box you could ever have for editing and color grading, it can calibrate itself, and you can game on it too. This is the Dell U3226Q, and in this post I’m going to be reviewing it from the perspective of a video editor who also games some on the side.

Also, for the sake of ethics: this post is not paid or sponsored by Dell, but they did send me the monitor so I could make this review.

An Anti-Glare OLED Panel

Let’s start with the biggest reason to care about this monitor: it has an extremely color accurate OLED panel. If you want a cheaper way into OLED, I put a $700 MSI OLED up against the Apple Studio Display. Dell claims this is the world’s first OLED panel with an anti-glare, low reflection coating. That means it doesn’t have the glossy pop you’d get from an OLED with a glass screen, but as a professional who wants to minimize glare, if you work in a bright room this thing is going to block more light and be much easier to see. It also comes with a detachable monitor hood to cut back on even more light hitting the screen, which is great.

If you’ve never used an OLED before, just know that OLED is pretty much the peak of display technology right now. You get a virtually unlimited contrast ratio with bright highlights and perfectly dark shadows because the pixels themselves can turn completely off when showing black. There’s no halo or ghosting effect like you’d get on an IPS panel.

Everything in display technology has been moving toward OLED for years. Phones have used OLED displays for years. If you’re watching my YouTube video right now on your phone, you’re probably watching it on an OLED screen. OLED TVs are what most people want to buy, and I’ve personally had one for several years and love it.

So when I say this Dell monitor is designed to leverage all the strengths of an extremely high-quality OLED panel in ways that will truly benefit you as a video editor, including a bunch of features they aren’t even advertising, I mean it. This may be the last monitor you have to buy for a very long time.

Color Accuracy

Dell claims this monitor covers 100% of the sRGB color space and 99% of DCI-P3, both of which really matter for video editors. If you want those colors to survive the edit as well, I explain color management in DaVinci Resolve separately. When I tested it with my Spyder color calibrator, I’m happy to tell you those claims were accurate. This screen delivers extremely accurate colors that look exactly how they should.

But here’s the thing: even with an extremely color accurate monitor that comes calibrated from the factory, I always recommend color calibrating any screen you plan to use for color grading. Monitor colors shift over time, it’s just a fact of screen technology. Colors can get warmer or cooler, the tint can shift more red or green. I’ve literally had it happen where I went too long between color calibrations, rendered a video, played it back on another computer, and thought “wait, these colors look a little funky.” Then I’d need to recalibrate to get things back to normal.

And color calibration can be a pain. You have to buy a color calibrator for a few hundred bucks, install the software, and then every few months remember to reconnect the calibrator and rerun the calibration. Most calibration software has a little nagging pop-up that appears to remind you, and I have lost count of the number of times I closed one of those pop-ups because I didn’t have time to deal with it.

And don’t even get me started on managing monitor ICC profiles and making sure each monitor is using the correct one, because you wake up one day and your operating system has chosen a different one for some reason and everything looks completely different until you track down the problem.

Let me know in the comments if you identify with that annoyance, because here’s where this monitor blows your mind.

The Built-In Color Calibrator

If you’ve been wondering why the bottom bezel on this monitor looks slightly thicker with a weird cut-out rectangle, strap in.

With this Dell OLED, you do not need to go out and spend hundreds of dollars on a separate color calibration tool and awkwardly dangle it over the front of your screen. This monitor has one built in, and it is so cool.

Whenever you want, you can press the joystick on the back of the monitor to open the menu, select calibrate, and the monitor will pop out a tiny motorized camera on a stick from the base. It analyzes the pixels on the screen and color calibrates itself at a hardware level.

What does hardware level mean? There are two types of color calibration: software and hardware. Software is where you buy a separate calibration tool, plug it into your computer’s USB port, install software, and whenever you calibrate, the results are saved as one of those annoying .icc files where you’re at the mercy of your operating system to actually use them correctly.

Hardware calibration is completely different. When you calibrate the monitor, the result is saved as a look-up table (LUT) to the monitor itself rather than to your computer. You don’t need any software on your computer for it to work. And if you switch between using a laptop and a desktop, you don’t need to have color calibration software installed on both machines. Just plug either one into the monitor and it’s going to display accurate colors, because those colors are saved to the monitor, not the individual computer.

Pretty cool, right? It absolutely blew my mind when that little camera stick popped out for the first time.

But we’re not done with the annoyance-fixing, because half the pain of color calibrating is the external calibrator and software, but the other half is just remembering to actually do it. Remember that annoying pop-up reminding you every few months?

Here’s what I think is truly magical about this monitor: you can set it to color calibrate itself on a schedule, completely automatically, with no input required from you at all. You can schedule it to calibrate every 200 hours, or quarterly, monthly, weekly, or even daily depending on how color-critical your work is.

You literally never have to think about color calibrating your screen again. Every time you sit down to color grade, you know the colors are accurate because the monitor has been keeping itself calibrated. Suddenly this monitor’s price starts to seem a lot more justified, doesn’t it?

Color Space Support

None of that would matter if the monitor didn’t support the color spaces you actually use when color grading, and that’s another area where this monitor feels purpose-built for video editors.

Open the menu and you’ll find presets for digital cinema like DCI-P3 with gamma 2.4 and 2.2, presets for YouTube like sRGB, photography with Adobe RGB, and broadcast video standards like Rec.709 and Rec.2020. There is so much control here, and it’s far more advanced than just picking “vivid” or “flat” on another monitor.

And then there’s HDR. It supports multiple flavors: HDR10 and HLG both with 1000 nits of brightness, Dolby Vision, and DisplayHDR True Black 500, a display standard designed for extremely accurate shadow detail while still getting quite bright at 500 nits. If you want to color grade in both standard and high dynamic range, this monitor handles basically all of it.

Hidden Filmmaker Features

Are we done with video features? No, because there are hidden settings in the menu that I haven’t seen anybody talking about or Dell advertising anywhere, but that are going to be extremely useful if you’re a filmmaker.

Here’s the context: if you want to buy an OLED reference monitor for on-set use, SmallHD will happily sell you one for an eye-watering $13,000 at the time I’m writing this. You get stellar visual quality and all the extra software features you’d expect from SmallHD, like scopes, overlays, and markers. It’s great, but you pay a lot for it.

Now with that $13,000 price in your head, this Dell OLED comes in at roughly one-fifth of that price and includes masking and marker overlays.

You can go into the monitor settings to add a 2.35:1 overlay, a 4:3 overlay if you’re outputting open gate, and more. You can also enable a mask that dims the parts of the frame that won’t be included in the video if you’re filming in an aspect ratio like 2.35:1.

I genuinely don’t know why these features are included on this monitor, but I’m not complaining. It definitely doesn’t have the fancy SmallHD OS, but it also doesn’t have the price. I’m not saying you have to buy it for that reason, but it’s really interesting that Dell included it.

Gaming Performance

Usually with a higher-end video editing monitor you have to make compromises, where color accuracy is great but the refresh rate is terrible. I’ve seen monitors with good colors that maxed out at 30hz or 60hz.

This Dell OLED combines an extremely color accurate and vibrant HDR screen with a 120hz refresh rate, 0.3ms response time, and VRR support. For most people who want to edit videos and game on the side, you’re going to be really happy with it.

To be clear, it’s not going to keep up with the more gaming-focused OLED monitors out there today with refresh rates at 240hz or higher, but those gaming monitors don’t offer the same level of color accuracy and built-in hardware color calibrators either.

Ports and Build Quality

A monitor is only as good as the ports it has, and you don’t have to worry here. You get 2 HDMI 2.1 ports, 1 DisplayPort 1.4 port, 2 Thunderbolt 4 ports, plus a full USB hub with USB-C and USB-A ports that pop out of a hidden cavity on the back. It also has a 2.5 gigabit ethernet port, really rounding out the hub experience. It comes with a DisplayPort cable, HDMI cable, and USB-C cable in the box.

The stand is sturdy with no wobble, and it can rotate, raise and lower, and tilt vertically. Controls are minimalistic: a power button and a joystick on the back that doubles as a button, plus three capacitive buttons on the bottom left of the bezel that you can assign to whatever you want for quick access.

The only thing missing is speakers, but honestly monitor speakers are bad 99% of the time anyway, so it’s not a big loss.

Burn-In: Should You Be Worried?

Let’s talk about the one concern you might have with an OLED monitor, and that’s burn-in. This is where a static image on screen becomes permanently visible, even when you’re doing something else. If you have grandparents who always have the news on, you may have seen this where the TV looks like it permanently has a news ticker at the bottom even when you change the channel.

With OLED screens, burn-in was more of a problem in the past due to the fragile nature of organic pixels. That said, in the last 5 to 10 years, burn-in reduction technology has gotten significantly better. TVs and monitors now have special refresh modes that run when the screen is off to help keep pixels from burning in.

This Dell monitor offers a pixel refresh feature that automatically runs whenever it goes into standby mode, and by default forces a pixel refresh every 24 hours. You can even set it to every 12 hours if you want to be extra careful.

My OLED TV has had zero burn-in issues after years of regular use. That said, a computer monitor is different from a TV because you’re more likely to leave it on all day displaying a static image like a dock at the bottom of the screen. This monitor has additional burn-in protections for that, including the ability to dim the screen or even dim only static areas like where the dock sits.

My recommendation if you’re worried about burn-in: hide your dock and menus until you mouse over them, set your desktop wallpaper to rotate through different images, and set your monitor to turn off when you’re not using it. Do those things and I would really not expect any issues, because the monitor will refresh its pixels whenever it’s off.

Should You Buy the Dell U3226Q?

Let’s talk price. This monitor comes in at $2,600 at the time of writing, which is on the higher end for a professional monitor before you get into ultra-niche reference monitors that cost $10,000, $20,000, or $30,000.

Here’s something I’ve found to be true in my technology-loving life: once you go OLED, you won’t go back. I feel the same way about this monitor as I did when I bought my first OLED TV. The contrast is too perfect, the colors are too good. Pointing a camera at it can’t do it justice, you really have to see it with your own eyes, and once you do and get used to editing on it, you won’t ever want to go back.

The good news is that OLED monitors keep dropping in price. You can get an extremely color accurate OLED for around $500 to $1,000 right now that will work great for color grading. But those budget OLEDs won’t have nearly the same features that make your life easier as a professional.

You’ll still need to color calibrate your monitor. You can buy a separate calibration tool and try to remember to do it every few months, or you can buy this Dell and have it calibrate itself automatically as often as you want, to the exact color space you’re editing in. It supports more color space presets than most monitors. Throw in the markers and overlays for different video aspect ratios, and this Dell OLED makes a really compelling argument for the price.

It’s going to save you time as an editor. And if your time is money, which I know most professionals feel strongly about, I think the Dell U3226Q is the monitor you should buy.

I’ll link to where I found the best price for this monitor down below, along with my monitor buyer guide to help you save time and money. And if you’re a video editor, check out my Edit Videos Like a Pro guide as well, which is completely free to download.

Video Editing M5 Macbook Buyer’s Guide 2026 💻

Video Editing M5 Macbook Buyer's Guide 2026 💻

If you’re planning to buy an Apple M5 MacBook for video editing, the good news is you don’t need to guess which one to choose!

After testing and comparing performance across different models, here are three clear recommendations at three price points:

  • Budget-friendly
  • Best bang for your buck
  • No-compromise powerhouse

I’ll also cover smart upgrades and what’s actually worth your money.


Ultra Budget Options (Bonus Picks)

Before jumping into M5 models, let’s quickly cover two lower-cost alternatives that still handle video editing surprisingly well.

1. MacBook Neo (~$500 with student pricing)

If your budget is tight, this is the cheapest entry point into video editing on macOS.

  • Handles light 4K editing
  • Slower exports, but usable
  • Great for beginners or occasional editors

It’s not fast, but for the price, it’s hard to beat.


2. MacBook Air M4 (~$760 refurbished)

This is where things get interesting.

For just a couple hundred more:

  • Massive performance jump
  • Handles most codecs and resolutions easily
  • Excellent for travel editing

If you can stretch your budget, this is a much better long-term option than the Neo.

Here are Video Editing Macbook Buyer’s Guide in 2022, Video Editing Macbook Buyer’s Guide 2024, and Video Editing Macbook Buyer’s Guide in 2023 too, and honestly it’s kind of wild seeing the difference.


Budget M5 Pick: Best Entry Into Pro Editing

👉 MacBook Pro 14-inch M5 ($1,700)

If you want a true M5 machine for editing, this is the easiest recommendation.

What you get:

  • 10-core CPU
  • 16GB RAM
  • 1TB SSD (finally standard 👏)

This will handle:

  • 4K editing smoothly
  • Moderate color grading
  • Most creator workflows

Optional Upgrades (Worth Considering)

  • Nano-texture display ($150)
    Great if you edit in bright environments
  • 96W charger ($20)
    Faster charging. Easy yes.

What NOT to Upgrade

Avoid upgrading:

  • RAM
  • Internal storage

Why? Because once you start adding $200–$400 upgrades, you’re getting dangerously close to a much more powerful machine…


Best Bang for Your Buck

👉 MacBook Pro 14-inch M5 Pro ($2,100)

This is the sweet spot for most video editors.

Specs:

  • 15-core CPU
  • 16-core GPU
  • 24GB RAM
  • 1TB SSD

Why This One Wins

  • ~25% faster than previous gen
  • Better hardware encoders/decoders
  • Optimized for editing software

Video editing apps love cores and media engines, and this delivers both.

Upgrade Advice

  • Stick with the base CPU
  • 24GB RAM is enough for most 4K workflows
  • 48GB upgrade is optional for future-proofing

Again, the closer you stay to $2,100, the better the value.


The Beast Option (For 6K/8K Editors)

👉 MacBook Pro 14-inch M5 Max ($3,600)

If you’re editing:

  • 6K or 8K footage
  • RAW formats
  • Large, complex timelines

This is your machine.

Specs:

  • 18-core CPU
  • 32-core GPU
  • 36GB RAM
  • 2TB SSD

Why It’s So Powerful

The real upgrade isn’t just CPU…

👉 It’s dual video encoders and decoders

  • M5 Pro = 1 encoder/decoder
  • M5 Max = 2 encoders/decoders

This dramatically speeds up:

  • Playback
  • Rendering
  • Export times

Not quite double performance, but close enough to matter.


Should You Upgrade the M5 Max?

Here’s where it gets tricky.

RAM Upgrades

  • Base: 36GB (fine for most projects)
  • 64GB: Requires CPU upgrade → ~$4,100 total

When to Upgrade RAM

Upgrade if you:

  • Edit long-form content (20–60 min timelines)
  • Work with heavy RAW workflows
  • Push large projects regularly

Otherwise, base config is enough.


Final Recommendations

Here’s the simple breakdown:

  • Tight budget:
    → MacBook Neo or M4 Air
  • Most people:
    → M5 Pro MacBook Pro ($2,100)
  • High-end workflows:
    → M5 Max MacBook Pro ($3,600+)

If you want the best balance of performance and price, the M5 Pro model is the clear winner.


Final Thoughts

Apple’s M5 lineup is incredibly capable for video editing, but the key is buying the right tier without overspending on upgrades that don’t matter.

Focus on:

  • CPU tier (Pro vs Max)
  • Media engines
  • RAM only if needed

Skip unnecessary upgrades, and you’ll get the best value for your money.

Want more? Check out my other Macbook buyers guides!

$10 Mod Makes the MacBook Neo 20% Faster In 10 Minutes! (Video Editing & Gaming)

$10 Mod Makes the MacBook Neo 20% Faster In 10 Minutes! (Video Editing & Gaming)

The MacBook Neo is an incredibly affordable laptop with a seriously powerful A18 Pro chip inside. But here’s the catch: Apple thermally throttles that chip to keep temps in check, and it slows it down significantly. Today I’m going to show you how to fix that with a simple $10 mod that can improve performance by 10 to 20%.

Baseline Performance Before the Mod

Before touching anything, let’s establish what the Neo can do out of the box.

Video export test: Exporting a 10-minute video in DaVinci Resolve at 4K, 50 Mb/s takes 11 minutes and 30 seconds. The performance cores hover around 2.2 GHz because the MacBook immediately throttles once it hits 100°C.

Gaming test (3DMark Solar Bay Extreme): This benchmark tests graphics performance for higher-end games with ray tracing. The Neo scored a “Good” rating with an average frame rate of 8.8fps and a max of 11fps.

Dropping the ray tracing and running the regular Solar Bay (not extreme) gave a “Great” rating with a much better average of 28.7fps and a max around 35fps. Worth noting: the Neo has an A18 Pro, not the newer A19 with improved ray tracing.

The Neo isn’t slow by any means, but if you’re doing pro work or gaming on this thing, it’s leaving performance on the table. Let’s fix that.

What You Need

This mod costs about $10 in materials. Here’s what you’ll need:

How to Do the Thermal Mod

Flip the Neo over with the trackpad facing you. Unscrew all the bottom screws, keeping in mind that the 2 screws near the trackpad in the bottom middle are slightly longer than the rest. Set those aside separately so you know exactly where they go back.

To remove the bottom panel, just slide it backwards away from you and it pops right off. No drama.

Here’s the good news: you don’t need to remove anything else. Look at the strip along the top of the interior and that’s your entire motherboard. The CPU and GPU are located on a chip roughly in the center of that strip.

Cut a piece of thermal pad approximately 3 to 4 inches long by 2 inches wide. The thermal pad already has adhesive on it, so peel the backing and stick it directly onto the motherboard over the chip.

That’s literally it. Pop the bottom panel back on, screw everything back in, and you’re done.

Why This Works

By adding this thermal pad, you’re dramatically increasing the cooling surface area of the laptop. The CPU is now essentially in contact with the aluminum case of the laptop, turning that aluminum body into a giant heat sink.

Yes, the bottom of your laptop will run warmer. But in all of my testing, it’s not uncomfortably warm and won’t damage anything. All you’re doing is warming up a chunk of metal.

If you want to go deeper, I’ve also got I Tried 4K Video Editing On The Cheapest Macbook Neo And This Happened.

Performance Results After the Mod

Here’s where things get interesting.

Video export test: That same 10-minute 4K DaVinci Resolve export now takes 10 minutes and 31 seconds, with performance cores holding a higher 3 GHz thanks to reduced thermal throttling. That’s about a 10% speed improvement for $10 in materials.

Gaming test (3DMark Solar Bay Extreme): The modded Neo jumped to an “Excellent” rating with an average of 9.9fps and a max of 25fps. That’s roughly a 20% performance improvement in graphics.

Regular Solar Bay: Also scored “Excellent” with an average of 31.3fps and a max around 38fps.

A 10 to 20% performance boost for $10 is genuinely awesome. I’m a big fan of this mod.

What About the Warranty?

If you’re worried about voiding your warranty, I wouldn’t stress too much. If you ever have an issue and need to bring it into an Apple Store, just open the Neo back up and remove the thermal pad before you go. No harm done.

Want to Get More Out of Your MacBook?

If you want to know which MacBooks I actually recommend for creative work like video editing, check out my M5 MacBook Buyer’s Guide for Video Editing and my M5 MacBook Pro review for video editors.

And if you want to level up your actual editing skills, grab my Edit Videos Like a Pro guide. It’s completely free and covers the biggest rules I follow to create better videos.

MacBook Neo vs M4 MacBook Air: Which Is Better for Video Editing?

MacBook Neo vs M4 MacBook Air: Which Is Better for Video Editing?

The MacBook Neo has been getting a lot of attention lately, and honestly it makes sense why. You can pick one up for $600 brand new, or as low as $500 with an education discount. Meanwhile, a refurbished M4 MacBook Air will run you around $760. So with a $160 to $260 price gap between these two computers, is it worth saving up for the Air, or should you just go with the Neo?

That’s exactly what this post is going to cover. I tested both laptops using DaVinci Resolve, Premiere Pro, and Final Cut Pro, so let’s get into it.

Specs Overview

First, let’s talk about what we’re working with. The MacBook Neo I tested is the base model, rocking Apple’s A18 Pro chip, a 256 GB SSD, and 8 GB of RAM. That’s also the maximum RAM it supports, since you can’t upgrade it. Eight gigs is not a lot.

The M4 MacBook Air I’m comparing it to is a slight step up from the base config. It has a small GPU upgrade from 8 cores to 10 cores, 512 GB of storage, and most importantly, 16 GB of RAM. Twice what the Neo offers.

Screen Quality

Screen quality matters a lot for photo and video work, and this is one area where the two laptops actually differ quite a bit. Both the Neo and the Air hit 500 nits of brightness, which looks great. But when I tested them with a Spyder color calibrator, the results were clear: the Neo covers 98% of sRGB and 73% of P3, while the Air covers 100% of both sRGB and P3.

For most video editors working in the sRGB color space, both laptops will look fine. But if you want to do any advanced color work or edit in HDR where you need to see a wider range of colors, the MacBook Air is the better choice.

Ports

Both laptops have two USB-C ports, but they’re not equal. On the MacBook Air, both ports are Thunderbolt. On the Neo, one port is USB 3 and the other is USB 2.0. In practical terms, this means you can copy footage from a memory card using either port on the Air, but on the Neo you’ll want to stick to the rear port for faster transfer speeds.

DaVinci Resolve Performance

I loaded the same project on both laptops in DaVinci Resolve, a mix of 4K, 6K, and RAW footage. The Neo handled playback well overall, but scrubbing through 6K and 8K Open Gate footage showed some lag, about half a second to a full second of delay as the slower processor and SSD tried to keep up.

The M4 MacBook Air, on the other hand, played back and scrubbed through everything smoothly, including Open Gate and RAW clips, with zero slowdown. I’ve been using this laptop for over a year and it still impresses me every time.

Render speeds told an even bigger story. Exporting a 10-minute video with all that footage took the Neo 11 minutes and 31 seconds. The M4 MacBook Air did the same export in 5 minutes and 18 seconds. Roughly half the time.

If you want to learn more about what makes DaVinci Resolve run well on Mac, check out my M4 MacBook Air long-term review for video editing.

Premiere Pro Performance

Premiere Pro is a different story. In my experience, it prefers a faster processor and more RAM, and the Neo’s 8 GB showed its limits here. Scrubbing around the timeline was noticeably rougher than in Resolve.

Rendering that same 10-minute video in Premiere Pro took the Neo 1 hour, 10 minutes, and 8 seconds. That’s not a typo. Dramatically slower than Resolve on the same machine.

I put together I Tried 4K Video Editing On The Cheapest Macbook Neo And This Happened as well, which covers the part I skipped over here.

The M4 MacBook Air handled the same render in 11 minutes and 18 seconds. Slower than Resolve, yes, but still very reasonable. The extra 8 GB of RAM and faster processor made a big difference, though I’ll be honest, Premiere isn’t quite as smooth as Resolve on either machine.

Final Cut Pro Performance

Final Cut Pro is legendary for running well on pretty much every Mac, and the Neo is no exception. It struggled a little with Open Gate and RAW footage while scrubbing, just like in Resolve, but it was still usable.

The M4 MacBook Air handled Final Cut like a breeze. The only real hangup I noticed was with RED RAW footage, which is a hardware encoder limitation for that specific codec, not really a knock on the laptop overall.

In terms of render times: the Neo finished in 12 minutes and 18 seconds. The MacBook Air came in at 4 minutes and 10 seconds, which was actually faster than both Resolve and Premiere on the same machine. Impressive.

So Which One Should You Buy?

Here’s my honest take: if you are truly on a tight budget and $500 is your limit, the Neo is still a capable machine. It can handle real video editing work and it’s not a bad laptop by any stretch.

But if you can save up an extra couple hundred dollars, the M4 MacBook Air is the better choice for video editing. You get significantly more power, twice the RAM, a better screen, better ports, and much faster render times. The difference in real-world editing performance is substantial, especially in Premiere Pro where the Neo really struggled.

If you’re still figuring out which Mac makes the most sense for your budget and workflow, check out my M5 MacBook buyer’s guide for video editing, which walks through several price points and what you actually get at each one.

And if you want to make better videos regardless of what laptop you’re editing on, grab my free Edit Videos Like a Pro guide. It’s completely free and it covers my biggest rules for creating better edits.

Turn Your Sony Camera Into a WebCam In MINUTES! (NO Capture Card Needed!)

Turn Your Sony Camera Into a WebCam In MINUTES! (NO Capture Card Needed!)

Using your Sony camera as a webcam is as easy as connecting a USB cable from your camera to your computer. Seriously! No capture card required, and this works on both Windows and Mac. In this guide I’m going to cover all the settings and show you the best ones for the highest quality.

I’m using a Sony a7S III for this tutorial, but this applies to basically all Sony cameras: the a7V, a7IV, a7C II, FX3, FX30, and more.

Step 1: Update Your Camera Firmware

The first thing you need to do is make sure your camera is running at least firmware 5.0. That’s the version where Sony added the USB streaming feature. Download the firmware update from Sony’s website, grab your camera and a memory card, and it takes about three minutes. Easy.

Step 2: Get the Right USB Cable

Once your firmware is updated, you’ll need your camera, a computer, and a USB cable. Here’s the important part: you need at least a USB-C SuperSpeed 3.2 cable if you want the maximum video resolution and quality.

The webcam feature will technically work with a slower USB 2.0 cable (like one that comes with an iPhone), but your resolution will be limited to 720p at 30fps. The camera will actually warn you about this when you plug it in. So grab a fast USB-C cable.

Step 3: Set the Camera to USB Streaming Mode

Before you connect the camera to your computer, open the menu and do the following:

Go to the yellow setup toolbox, then USB, then USB Connection Mode, and select USB Streaming.

While you’re in there, also make sure USB Power Supply is turned on. This way your computer will power the camera through the cable and keep the battery from dying during a long call or stream.

Exit the menu, plug one end of the USB-C cable into your camera and the other into your computer.

The first time you do this, the camera will show a message saying the USB streaming function always operates in movie mode. If you don’t want this to pop up every time, check the “Don’t Show This Again” box and press OK. Your computer may also ask if you want to allow the connection. Press Allow.

Step 4: Select Your Camera in Your App

With everything connected, open whatever app you use for video calls: Zoom, Google Meet, OBS, anything. Your Sony camera should appear as a webcam option. Select it and it’s immediately working. The camera screen will show HD1080P 30P in the top left corner.

But if you want the highest quality, including 4K, there are a few more settings to tweak.

How to Enable 4K USB Streaming

You might try going to the Image Quality/Recording menu to change the resolution, but those settings will be grayed out when USB streaming is active. Instead, here’s where to go:

Go to the green network globe icon, then Streaming, then USB Streaming. From here you can change the output resolution and frame rate up to 4K at 30fps.

One quick note: I would skip the 4K 15P option. 15 frames per second looks terrible. I honestly have no idea why Sony includes it.

How to Record While Streaming at the Same Time

Still inside that same USB Streaming menu, you’ll see a setting called Movie Record During Streaming. Enable this and the camera will output your live stream while simultaneously recording a separate video file to the memory card.

This is super useful if you want to stream at a lower resolution for reliability while also capturing a higher quality recording to upload later or hand off to a client.

When this setting is enabled, you can go back to the red shooting camera menu under Image Quality/Recording and change the recording format to 10-bit, which will be much higher quality than what you’re streaming.

How to Control the Look of Your Image

Unfortunately, you can’t enable S-Log3 for live streaming, so you won’t get the full dynamic range you would when recording normally. If you want to learn more about shooting in S-Log3, check out my post on my favorite Sony picture profile.

But you do have some control over the look of your image, and these settings apply to both the live stream and the recorded video to the memory card.

Go to the pink Exposure/Color menu, then Color/Tone. From here, you can access the Creative Look menu, which has a bunch of presets that tweak contrast and saturation.

My recommendation is to choose Neutral (NT), and then press the right button on the back of the camera to bring up individual sliders for contrast, highlights, shadows, saturation, sharpness, and clarity.

Here are my specific settings:

  • Contrast: 0
  • Highlights: -5
  • Shadows: -2
  • Sharpness: 4
  • Clarity: 0

This gives you a punchy, high-contrast image without being oversaturated or over-sharpened. Basically, it’s going to look dramatically better than any webcam you’ve ever used before.

Want to Go Even Deeper on Your Sony Camera Settings?

If you want to get your Sony camera completely dialed in for video, check out my post on the best Sony a7S III and FX3 menu settings. And if you’re serious about getting the most out of your camera, my Edit Videos Like a Pro guide will help you take that footage and turn it into something you’re really proud of.