Not pretty shots, but why I took them. Reading the wind before you launch, the exact drone settings I used, and the two things I do before every take-off.
Continue readingMy Favorite Picture Profile for the DJI Mavic Pro
As promised in my Mavic Pro review, here is my favorite picture profile for the DJI Mavic Pro. This is the exact profile I use for filming weddings, travel videos, and any other professional shoot, and with a bit of color grading I find it gets genuinely beautiful footage out of this tiny drone.
I’m putting all the settings right at the top, because I hate whenever I’m watching a picture profile video and it’s fifteen minutes long and fourteen of those minutes are somebody talking about their cat, with one minute of actual settings buried in the middle, and heaven forbid they put it in the description. It bugs me to no end. So here it is, and if that’s all you came for, you’re done.
My Mavic Pro Settings

- Picture profile: D-Log, sharpness 0, contrast -1, saturation -1. (Sharpness goes to +1 in a very high dynamic range scenario. More on that below, because it matters.)
- Video format: MP4, not MOV
- Resolution and frame rate: 4K at 30fps, conformed in post to 24fps
- Shutter: 1/60th, which I can hold even on the brightest day using PolarPro’s Cinema Series Vivid Collection of ND filters with polarizers
- Overexposure warning (zebras): on
- EV meter: hold it at 0.0, or +0.3 or +0.7, never below zero
- White balance: manual, using Custom and dialing in a Kelvin value. Usually 7000K on a bright to partly cloudy day.
- ISO: 100 wherever possible
- Recording mode: Manual
That’s the whole profile. The rest of this is the why, so you’re not emailing me asking why I picked any of it.
Why D-Log

D-Log gives the best dynamic range and the most flexibility when it comes to color grading. The sensor on the Mavic Pro is really tiny, so any chance I get to boost dynamic range and image quality, I’m taking it.
Worth knowing: DJI put out a firmware update that made D-Log look substantially better than it did at launch. So if you bought your Mavic early, tried D-Log, and decided it looked gross, go try it again. It’s a different picture now.

Quick warning while we’re in the app: on my firmware the EV meter is buggy and doesn’t show the current exposure in Manual mode at all. If yours isn’t working either, trust your zebras instead.

Sharpness, And The Noise Reduction Trap
In most shooting situations I keep sharpness at 0. I never take it to -1, -2, or -3, because that starts making all the colors run together and you get the watercolor effect people complain about. At 0 I don’t deal with that at all.

The one time I go to +1 is a very high dynamic range scene, say flying toward a bright sunset with shadowy trees underneath. Here’s the reason, and it is not obvious: DJI built in a noise reduction algorithm that is active from -3 all the way up through 0 on the sharpness scale. In a high dynamic range scene that algorithm makes some things look sharp while muddying everything else, and you end up with a weird image that just doesn’t look right. Setting sharpness to +1 turns the algorithm off.
I only know that thanks to another filmmaker also named Matt, who runs The Film Poets. He made a great video demonstrating it with exactly that sunset and trees scenario, and I’d highly recommend watching it.
Contrast And Saturation At -1

You’re probably wondering why I don’t push these to -2 or -3 and go as flat as possible. The answer is that D-Log is already really pretty flat and it doesn’t need to be flatter. At -1 I still have plenty of range to grade the image however I want, without giving up so much contrast that I’m fighting to build it back.
MP4, 4K, And Why Not 1080p

I shoot MP4 rather than MOV, mostly because I read a few forum posts with horror stories about MOV files and figured MP4 works fine for me. I see no quality difference between them.
I shoot 4K because I shoot 4K with everything and I’m uploading in 4K. You’ve probably seen the forum posts arguing 2.7K is better. Through all my own testing and all the videos I’ve watched about it, I do not see a real quality difference between 2.7K and 4K, so I stay in 4K to maximize what I’ve got. If you’re delivering in 1080p, 2.7K might genuinely suit you better. Test it yourself.
What I will say without hedging: do not record with this drone in 1080p. Not 1080/24, not 1080/60. The bit rate isn’t high enough and the image falls apart fast, watercolor effect everywhere. This drone is not built for 60fps. If you need that, buy a Phantom 4 Pro. Keep the Mavic at 2.7K or 4K.
30fps Conformed To 24

You’re thinking that’s weird, shouldn’t cinematic be 24, that’s what the movies are. I still export at 24. I shoot at 30, import at 30, conform in Premiere to 24, and export.
The reason is that the roughly 20 percent slowdown you get going from 30 to 24 smooths out any little gimbal shakes and general weirdness. Everything still reads as real time, you genuinely can’t tell it’s slowed, but the motion is a little cleaner. That’s the whole trick.
1/60th Shutter And ND Filters

1/60th is double my 30fps frame rate, which is the shutter rule, and I can hold it in bright sun because of the PolarPro Cinema Series ND filters with polarizers. That’s the second time I’ve mentioned them and it won’t be the last, because on a drone with a fixed aperture, NDs are your only exposure control.
The reason I care about 1/60th is motion blur. Shoot at 1/1000th and you get a jagged, sharp looking image where you can practically see every individual frame. At a lower shutter it just looks right to the human eye.
Speaking of which, A Wedding Filmmaker’s Review of the DJI Mavic 2 Pro: Time to Upgrade? is worth a look too.
Zebras And The EV Meter

Turn the overexposure warning on. It puts zebra stripes over anything blown out, so at a glance I know where I stand. Sometimes I want that, filming straight into the sun for example. Filming ground and landscape, I definitely don’t.
Alongside the zebras I watch the EV meter, and I want it at 0.0, maybe +0.3 or +0.7. The reason is that log formats are hungry for light. They want a bright image that you then grade back down. What I never want to see is EV in the negatives, because once you introduce darkness into a log image, pulling those levels back up is so much harder and so much uglier.
So in practice: expose almost to the point where zebras appear, then back off just below that. That’s your level. And since the Mavic has a fixed aperture, the way you get there is with ND filters, not by opening up.
ISO 100, And What The Mavic Can’t Do
ISO 100 whenever possible. The moment you start climbing, 200, 400, 800, you’re introducing noise, because the sensor is just so gosh darn tiny. In a twilight situation, if you can keep it under 400 you’ll be okay. Past 800 it gets muddy fast, you’re reaching for denoising software, and it still won’t be as sharp as you wanted.
So let’s be straight about it: this drone does not excel in low light. If you need to shoot at night, get something with a bigger sensor, a Phantom 4 Pro or an Inspire. But for daylight shooting, I love the Mavic. It looks so great and it makes me so happy.
More
Some of the b-roll in this video doesn’t look very Texas, and that’s because I took a trip to Iceland and could not help sharing a few of the clips.
If you want the full verdict on the drone itself, here’s my Mavic Pro review, where I answer whether it’s good enough for professional and commercial work. Here’s all my favorite drone video gear, and everything here gets graded with my LUTs.
Want more help? Download my free quick tips guide to booking more wedding film clients, take a look at my wedding film editing course, or come join the Learn Wedding Filmmaking Facebook group. Everything gets cut in Adobe Premiere Pro.
This was filmed in May 2017 on the original Mavic Pro and the DJI Go app of the time, so menu names and firmware behavior have moved on, and the EV meter bug I mention was fixed in later firmware. The reasoning holds: shoot log, protect the highlights with zebras, keep ISO down, and control exposure with NDs rather than with the shutter.
I’m required to state that I’m part of affiliate programs for Amazon, B&H, Soundstripe, Artlist, Musicbed, and Adobe, and that some of the links above are affiliate links.
How to Film A Wedding | Behind The Scenes of Not just in Love, in Joy with each other
Before you do anything else, go watch the wedding trailer this behind the scenes is about: “Not just in Love, in Joy with each other”. It’s one minute long. Otherwise you’ll spend this whole thing going “wait, what am I looking at?”
Done? Good.
I’ve wanted to make this video for about a year and a half. Back in my very first video blog aimed at wedding filmmakers, a review of the Sony a7S II, I said I wanted to film a behind the scenes of a real wedding so you could watch me work on a real day with real people and understand how I actually do it. So whenever my friend Noah told me he was getting married and asked me to film it, I brought along my friend Paul Bailey to shoot a behind the scenes of Rachel and me shooting the wedding.
And to be clear about scope: this is twenty minutes of behind the scenes covering one minute of trailer. I filmed hours and hours more. You can probably extrapolate how long the full-day version is going to be.
The Gear We Shoot A Wedding With

We’re both on the Sony a7S II. This one’s mine, that one’s Rachel’s. We always shoot on the same body. I don’t really know why we do that, that’s just how we do it.
I shoot wider, Rachel shoots tighter. I’m on a 24mm or a 50mm depending on what I need. She’s usually on a 50mm or a 135mm, and she loves that 135.
The lens set is a hodgepodge. A Canon lens, a Sony lens, two Sigma Arts, and adapters to make whatever we need work. Someday I dream of owning one cohesive set. Hasn’t happened yet. We’re not perfect, I’m sorry.
Honestly, if I have a 50 and a 24 I’m good all day. I could shoot the whole wedding on those two and be totally happy. That comes with a caveat though: I have a second shooter getting the tight stuff, so I’m free to be closer in on emotion, faces, hands, rings, the details, without ever getting in the photographer’s way.
What’s Always In The Bags
Rachel carries a lens cleaning cloth and I hand her a variable ND filter, a magnetic one so it fits every lens she’ll touch. She also carries a mirror for trick shots, because she likes them, plus her water and a couple of lenses.

My shoulder bag holds whichever lens I’m not currently using, with the caps already off so I can grab it fast, the adapter I’ll need for it, and a sensor air blower, because you never know when you’ll find dust on your sensor mid-day. And I carry Mr. Prism, because a prism is a cheap and effective way to get really pretty reflection shots.
We also carry a buttload of batteries. Twelve Sony NP-FW50s, all charged beforehand. That sounds like overkill until you’re twelve hours into a wedding day with two a7S IIs, and on this day Paul was on one too. So we charged all day long, which is easy enough whenever you’re at one venue: set the chargers up in a room, plug them in, and grab what you need.
Divide And Conquer During The Rehearsal
Nothing important is happening yet, they’re just running the rehearsal, so we split. Rachel goes to grab establishing shots of the grounds and to sit in on the rehearsal, checking whether anything about how people are standing needs tweaking before it counts.
I go fly the drone. Do I need an excuse? The sun isn’t high yet and the light is good, so it’s the right time. It’s also a drone.

On the Phantom 4 I run PolarPro Cinema Series filters, which have a polarizer built in alongside the ND. I put the ND6 on, because I’m shooting D-Log, which has a fixed ISO of 500, and I’m in bright sunlight.
I never know exactly what I’m getting until I’m up there. I know I want the buildings and the tree, but past that it’s a bit of a crapshoot until you’re in the air looking down going “oh, that’s pretty.” Sometimes a venue gives you something incredible. Sometimes you get a few nice shots of the buildings and you land without going crazy, and that’s fine too.
Every Shot’s Settings, On Screen
Throughout the video the lens, aperture, ISO, resolution, and frame rate are burned into the corner of every shot, so you can see exactly what I was on at each point in the day rather than guessing.



The Chandelier Problem, Solved Months In Advance
Here’s the piece I’m proudest of, and it happened long before the wedding day.
We’d filmed at this venue about four months earlier, and the chandeliers in the reception hall flicker horrendously. Bad enough that a photographer working that day was getting banding in her stills. That’s how bad.
So I told the bride and groom about it. And because they’re good friends who care about our creativity and about getting a good film, they said sure, we’ll just move everything outside. Toasts outdoors, bouquet and garter outdoors, dancing on the deck. Only the cake cutting and dinner stayed inside.
That’s the lesson. By talking to the couple early and building that relationship, you can make changes to the wedding itself that will make your film better. No amount of gear buys you that.
And Then Everything Went Wrong
So much for my dream of showing you a behind the scenes where everything goes perfectly and I have no problems at all.

The forecast that morning said a 10% chance of rain. By evening there was a severe thunderstorm watch on my phone and a wall of weather coming across the field that frankly looked a bit like a tornado.
We weren’t planning to take the couple out for portraits until after dinner, around 6:30. With the storm coming we asked instead: can we borrow you for five minutes right now? Grant took them out into the field, we followed, got some great stuff, and then he and I worked together to shift things and get images we were both excited about.
Then the whole reception moved indoors. Every single thing I’d spent months arranging to happen outside, back under the flickering chandeliers. Toasts inside, so a light had to go up. New angles to figure out. And you just roll with it, because on a wedding day you cannot predict anything.

Dancing, And ISO 16,000

That’s a Canon 50mm at f1.8, ISO 16,000, 1080p at 60fps. Which is exactly the argument for this camera: a dance floor at night is where an a7S II stops being a preference and starts being the reason you got the shot at all.

The Rest Of This Series
- 🎥 The trailer this is a behind the scenes of
- ❤ Noah and Mallorie’s full wedding film
- ▶ Full-day BTS Part 1: planning, gear, and establishing shots
- ▶ Full-day BTS Part 2: how I film bride and groom prep
Shoutout to Grant Daniels Photography for shooting this wedding and giving some great commentary in this video, and to Paul Bailey for filming the behind the scenes.
Gear Used In This Video
- Prism
- Think Tank lens carrier bag
- Sigma 50mm lens
- Sigma 24mm lens
- Sensor air blower
- Vizelex ND Throttle lens adapter
- Fotodiox Pro lens adapter
- Lens cleaning cloths
- Variable ND filter
- Xume magnetic filter adapters
- Xume magnetic lens cap
- Jupiter 9 85mm lens
- M42 to E-mount tilt lens adapter, which is what adapts the Jupiter 9 to a Sony body
- 📷 The rest of my filmmaking gear and my gear page
Music In This Video
“Anthem: Retrace” by A. Taylor and “On The Mountain By The Sea” by Utah, both licensed through Musicbed.
🎥 I also offer one-on-one filmmaker consulting if you want to talk cameras, lighting, or booking clients. ►► My free guide to booking more wedding clients is here, and ✌ the Learn Wedding Filmmaking Facebook Group is where the rest of us hang out.
How to EASILY remove dust spots from your videos in Premiere Pro & After Effects
With 4K and mirrorless cameras it is no longer a question of if you will get a dust spot, it is when. Here is how to mask them out with Dust & Scratches in Premiere Pro, and the faster After Effects method for when a clip is really filthy.
Continue readingHow To Film Incredible Dancing Footage In Your Wedding Films!
There are some things that you can learn by reading books and manuals, but some only come through years of experience. In my wedding tutorial vlogs, I attempt to distill all my years of knowledge into easy to understand tips and tutorials to give you a “shortcut” so you can improve quicker. My goal with these tutorials is to not only tell you how I do something, but why I do it.
To date, some of my favorite videos tutorials to create have been “A Wedding Filmmaker’s Guide to Posing The Couple,” and my “Establishing Shots: Why they are important and how to film them!” I only wish I had more things like this when I was starting out. This one fits right in with those, along with how wedding filmmakers can get along with photographers.

Today, in the same vein as those favorite tutorials I bring you a new one, all about how I film dancing at a wedding reception. In it, I cover four key tips that should help your improve your footage of people dancing during a wedding reception. The open dance floor doesn’t have to be boring or intimidating! It can be a lot of fun, I promise.

Tip One: Talk To Everybody Before The Day
This goes back to my entire philosophy for how I film weddings, honestly, which is that you should be talking to everyone you possibly can and doing as much pre-production ahead of time as you can get away with. For the dancing specifically, that means three separate conversations.
The couple. Ask about their colors and their venue. Colors matter more than people realize, because sometimes they’ll hire an uplighting specialist who shows up and floods the room in bright green, and you’re standing there watching skin tones fall apart on your monitor. Any time you can talk to them ahead of the day and offer a constructive suggestion, not a demand, about what’s going to photograph well, that’s a win. Then look up the venue online and see what other people’s footage from that room actually looks like.
The coordinator. Get to know them, be friendly, and if they’re helping make any of the color decisions, offer the same constructive input. A coordinator who likes you makes your entire day easier, and that’s true whether or not the lighting ever comes up.
The DJ. This is the one nobody thinks to do. Couples hire a DJ, and the DJ says he’ll bring uplighting and stage lights and handle the whole dance floor, and sometimes those are LED fixtures that band on camera or throw purple and green across everybody’s face. So I reach out and ask: are you bringing lights, what kind, what colors were you thinking? These are weird niche questions that a DJ probably never gets asked, and every single one of them makes the video better.
Tip Two: Bring Your Own Light
Ideally, for the dance scenes, you want the venue’s lights turned down. And I already hear you: Matt, I don’t have an a7S II, I can’t shoot in the dark, why are you telling me to do this. I’m not saying don’t bring light. I’m saying don’t use the venue’s light. Bring your own.
I use the Arri 150, which is a 150 watt spotlight balanced to 3200K. It doesn’t flicker in slow motion, which by itself rules out a lot of cheaper fixtures, and it gives beautiful skin tones. It’s also beam focusable, so there’s a knob on the back that takes you from a tight spot to a wide wash depending on how big the dance floor is. I usually leave it wide.

The barn doors are sold separately and you want them. They’re how you keep the light off the wall behind the dance floor and off the head table and pointed where you actually want it.

And here’s the real reason this matters. If you’ve talked to the couple and the coordinator and the DJ and they still want the purple uplighting, this light saves you, because whatever it’s shining on has good color. You’re not fighting the room anymore, you’re just overpowering it on the one patch of floor that ends up in your film.
Stands And The Cheap Alternative
For stands I use CheetahStands, which spread their legs out automatically the second you set them down. That sounds like a small thing right up until you’re speed-walking across a reception hall with a light in one hand trying to get set before the first dance.
And if the Arri is too rich for your taste, the Lowel Pro-light does most of the same job for a fraction of the price and I genuinely love that light too. You don’t need to spend a fortune here. There are other well-regarded spotlights out there as well, but between those two you’re covered.
- Arri 150 Watt Light at B&H
- Arri Barn Doors on Amazon
- Light Dimmer on Amazon
- CheetahStand light Stand on Amazon
- Lowel Pro-light at B&H
- Lowel Pro-light Barn Doors on Amazon
Get the lights, stands, and dimmer I talked about in the video on my reception lighting Gear page.
Buy A Dimmer, And Boil The Frog
This is my favorite trick in the whole video and it cost me about twenty bucks. Get an inline dimmer with a control knob so you can set your light anywhere from low to full.

Here’s why. I set my light up the moment I get to the reception, before anybody is even in the room, so it’s already part of the furniture by the time guests walk in and nobody ever has that “whoa, what is that” reaction. I run it somewhere between low and medium at first. Then, all night long, I creep it up. It’s the boiling a frog thing, where you raise the temperature slowly enough that the frog never notices. In this case the guests are the frog, and I would like to slowly boil them.
By the time we’re deep into the open dancing and everybody’s had a couple of drinks and is going crazy out there, that light is at maximum, and nobody blinked at it once. That’s when I get the bright backlight, the lens flares, the whole look.

Whatever spotlight you pick, having one opens up options you simply don’t have otherwise. You can put it behind people and shoot into it for backlight and flares. You can push it off to the side for nice side lighting. And if your camera isn’t great in low light, you can just shoot from the side the light is on, and hey, people are lit and they look good.

Tip Three: Get In There
This is the camera technique that totally blew my mind whenever I started doing it, to the point that I wondered why I hadn’t been shooting everything this way the whole time. Put a 50mm or an 85mm or a 135mm on your camera and get close. Not “zoom in from the edge of the room” close. Actually in there, near people’s faces, moving with them.

People on a dance floor are already packed together like sardines, so nobody thinks it’s weird that you’re in there too. And the difference in the footage is enormous, because you get the energy and the feeling of it. When I started shooting weddings I’d stand off to the side with a 70-200 zoomed all the way in going “okay, that looks good, those people over there,” and the footage always felt removed. Sterile. Like watching a party through a window instead of being at one.

And yes, this means handheld. If you’re about to tell me you don’t have in-body stabilization, that’s fine, because I used to shoot handheld dance floors on a Sony FS100 and they looked great. Whenever you have high tempo music and fast cuts, people forgive the shakiness completely, and honestly it adds a bit of that shaky frenetic energy that never quite worked in the movies that overused it but works beautifully here.

Close in on the action, spotlight behind them, fast cuts, good music, and suddenly people watch your film and think “man, that dancing looked fun, I hope my wedding is that fun, I should hire this guy.” Just saying. It works.
Tip Four: Use The Buddy System
Not like swimming. Like filming. If you’re shooting with a second shooter, do not send them off across the room to cover something random. Keep them with you and tag team.
The way it works is that whenever you’re filming a couple dancing, one of you films one person and the other films the other person, roughly at a 90 degree angle so you’re never in each other’s shot. My wife and I do this constantly. I’ll be on a 50mm on one of them, she’ll be right next to me on an 85mm on the other, and the different focal lengths mean the two shots cut together instead of looking like the same shot twice.

And this is the part that pays you back later, because in the edit you’re no longer stringing together random dancing shot, random dancing shot, random dancing shot. You have couple shot one, couple shot two, couple shot three, and the whole sequence ties itself together. It’s almost editing itself.
The Films I Pulled Examples From
- Meant To Be Together Since Grade School
- Scotland Meets Texas
- High School Sweethearts in the Hill Country
- My breath of life, my other half, my Cinderella
One note if you’re reading this years later: the prices I quoted in the video were current in 2017 and the fixtures have moved around since. Check what things actually cost before you buy.
More Gear And More Help
You can check out the rest of the gear I use for filmmaking at my Gear Page or over on Kit. Here’s what’s in the bag now:
- INSANE lowlight main camera on Amazon
- My favorite wide angle lens with AF on Amazon
- Ultra-versatile medium lens with AF on Amazon
- Best drone ever on Amazon
- Filters for the best drone ever on Amazon
- BEEFY electronic gimbal on Amazon
- Fantastic video monopod on Amazon
- Ridiculously tiny audio recorder and mic on Amazon
- Prism for fancy in-camera effects on Amazon
- FAST video editing laptop on Amazon
- Indestructible camera case on Amazon
- Light & sturdy travel tripod on Amazon
- Portable LED Lighting Kit on Amazon
Everything is color graded with my own WhoisMatt LUTs, and the music comes from Sound Stripe (coupon code “WHOISMATT” for 10% off), Art List (free extra 2 months through that link), and Musicbed. Whenever I need help with an edit I use Archaius Creative, who’ll knock 10% off your first project.
If you want to go deeper, my wedding film editing course covers the whole edit, there’s a free Learn Wedding Filmmaking Facebook group, and I have a free quick tips guide on how to book more wedding film clients.
Oh, and in the video I mention that my Mavic Pro review is coming eventually, after I went through three of them before getting one that worked. I did finally make it: here’s a wedding filmmaker’s review of the DJI Mavic Pro.
As always, if you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave one below or get in touch. You can also follow along on Instagram.
I am also now offering one-on-one personal filmmaker consulting! Wanna talk about cameras, lighting, or booking clients? Let’s do it!
How To Export HD Video in Premiere Pro CC for YouTube and Vimeo
Save time and download my free 1080p Export Preset for Premiere Pro!
This is the second video in my tutorial series all about the video settings that I use when rendering my videos in Adobe Premiere Pro CC. While first video and text tutorial was all about my 4K export settings, this one tackles my 1080p export settings. If you are using Adobe Premiere Pro CS6, CS 5.5, or CS5, I have an earlier blog post I wrote back in 2012 detailing my 1080p export settings for those programs.
This tutorial is significantly shorter than my 4K export settings tutorial due to me not going nearly as in-depth about my reasoning for choosing the settings that I use. So if you are watching this video or reading the text tutorial below and are confused about why I am using a certain setting, I would highly recommend watching the 4K export settings video, as many of the settings that I go over are similar and include explanations.
Want to export even faster? Instead of creating your own export preset, just download and use mine!
Lastly, if you would rather read how to export your videos in 1080p instead of watch, I have included a text tutorial with screenshots below, detailing my exact export settings.
My text guide for how to export 1080p video in Premiere Pro CC for YouTube and Video
First, make sure you have Adobe Premiere Pro installed. Don’t have a copy of Premiere?! Download a free 7-day trial from adobe here.
SEQUENCE PRESET SETUP
Before I get to my export settings, I need to discuss the sequence preset that I use. Premiere uses the term “sequence” to describe the timeline that you will use when editing your video. It is important to select a sequence preset that is the same as the video settings that you used when filming with your camera. You can use “Ctrl + N” or go to “File > New > Sequence” to open the new sequence dialog box. For the video clip I use in this project, I filmed in 1920×1080 resolution at 120fps with the Sony A7Sii. I then used Premiere to interpret the footage to 23.976 fps and that is what we will be exporting today. I need to select a new sequence preset that is the same as these video settings. Select Digital SLR > 1080p > DSLR 1080p24. Name your sequence in the dialogue box below, and click “OK.”
EDIT YOUR VIDEO
Your video is now ready to be edited as you would normally on the timeline. Once you have finished editing and are ready to export your video, go to the next step.
SET YOUR IN AND OUT POINTS
Once your video is edited and ready to render. You need to set your “In” and “Out” points. Do this by moving the video playhead to where you want the opening frame of your rendered video to begin and press the “I” key on your keyboard. Then move the playhead to the end of your video and select the “O” key on your keyboard. The timeline will turn a darker color where your in and out points are selected. It is now time to export your video! With the timeline selected you can either press “Ctrl + M” on the keyboard, or navigate to “File > Export > Media” in the menu.
BEGIN CHANGING YOUR EXPORT SETTINGS
You’ve now opened the “Export Settings” dialog box and there’s approximately 3,000 settings you could change. Don’t freak out though, we’re going to tackle this one section at a time. First, under the “Export Settings” heading on the left, next to “Format” select “H.264” from the drop down menu. For Preset select, “Custom.” Click the blue text next to “Output Name” and select a name and location to save your video file. Make sure both the “Export Video” and “Export Audio” boxes are checked.
BASIC VIDEO SETTINGS AND BITRATE SETTINGS FOR YOUTUBE, VIMEO, FACEBOOK, AND OTHER VIDEO SITES
If you are uploading your video to YouTube, Vimeo, Facebook, or any other video site, I recommend using the below settings. The file sizes will be quite large, but this will ensure that your video retains its quality when you upload it to these sites and they convert it into different formats and resolutions. Also, if you want to know my reasoning for choosing these settings, please watch my 4K export settings video.
Select the “Video Tab” in the middle of the export settings dialog box and set “Profile” to “High” and “Level” to “4.2”. Then make sure your “Width” is set to “1,920” and your “Height” is set to “1,080”. Set your frame rate to “23.976”, and check the “Render at Maximum Depth.”
I put together How To Export 4K Video In Premiere Pro CC 2022 For YouTube, Facebook, & Vimeo, How To Export High Quality HD Video In Premiere Pro CC 2022 For YouTube, Facebook, & Vimeo, and Best Export Settings For Premiere Pro For YouTube as well, which cover the part I skipped over here.
Under “Bitrate Settings” set “Bitrate Encoding” to “CBR” and your “Target Bitrate [Mbps] to “40.” Lastly, check “Use Maximum Render Quality” at the bottom.
BITRATE SETTINGS FOR GIVING YOUR 1080p VIDEO TO CLIENTS
If you are not planning on uploading your video to an online video site, and instead are giving it to a client, I would recommend using these bitrate settings because the file size won’t be nearly as large.
For “Basic Video Settings” use the same settings as you would if you were uploading to an online video site. For “Bitrate Settings,” change “Bitrate Encoding” to “VBR, 2 Pass.” Set “Target Bitrate [Mbps]” to “15” and Maximum Bitrate [Mbps] to “40”. Lastly, check “Use Maximum Render Quality” at the bottom.
CHANGE YOUR AUDIO EXPORT SETTINGS
Click the “Audio” tab in the middle of the Export Settings window and for “Audio Format” select “AAC”. Under Basic Audio Settings, set the “Audio Codec” to “AAC”, Sample Rate to “48000 Hz”, “Channels” to “Stereo”, and “Audio Quality” to “High”. Lastly, for “Bitrate Settings” set “Bitrate [kbps]” to “320” and under Advanced Settings set “Precedence” to “Bitrate”.
SAVE YOUR VIDEO PRESET
Now that you have created your video settings, click the down arrow icon to the right of your “Preset” at the top, and name your new Export Preset either “1920×1080 23.976 cbr 40” or “1920×1080 23.976 vbr 15,40” depending on whether you are saving the 40mbps CBR preset or the 15,40 VBR preset.
EXPORT YOUR VIDEO
You are ready to click “Queue” or “Export” at the bottom of the dialog box and render your video!
I hope this video and tutorial has been helpful to you. As always, if you have any questions or comments, please feel free to leave one below or get in touch.















