The Panasonic S1 II is one of the most powerful hybrid cameras Panasonic has ever released. It is absolutely loaded with professional video features. The downside is that it ships with hundreds of menu options that are not optimized for real-world filmmaking out of the box.
If you want to get the best image quality, best autofocus performance, and the smoothest shooting experience possible, you need to customize the camera heavily.
This guide walks you through how I set up the Panasonic S1 II for video. These are the same settings I use for client work, YouTube, and paid productions.
If you want to save a ton of time, I also provide a free downloadable S1 II preset file that applies all of these settings automatically, including button layouts, custom menus, and quick menu shortcuts. You can download that here and follow along if you want the fastest setup possible.
I also teach all of this in much more depth inside my Panasonic S1 II Pro Video Guide course, where I break down why these settings work, how to adjust them for different shooting scenarios, and how to get the most out of the camera long term.
Now, it’s time to dive into the menus!
Start With a Full Camera Reset
Before changing any settings, I recommend resetting the camera back to factory defaults. This ensures we are starting from the same baseline.
To reset the S1 II:
- Turn the camera on
- Go to the menu
- Navigate to the blue wrench icon
- Go to the gear submenu
- Select Reset
- Reset all settings, network settings, and custom setup settings
Once this is done, your camera will behave exactly like it did when you first took it out of the box.
Set the Physical Camera Controls First
Before touching the menus, make sure the camera is physically set up correctly.
- Set the top mode dial to M (Manual)’
- Set the left-side dial to the video camera icon
- Set the focus switch to C (Continuous AF)
This ensures the camera is fully in manual video mode and ready for menu customization.
Image Quality Settings (Red Video Menu)
Photo Style
Set your Photo Style to V-Log.
V-Log is the profile I recommend using for about 99 percent of video work on the S1 II. It gives you maximum dynamic range and flexibility in post.
There are separate lessons in my course that go deep into V-Log settings and color grading, but for now, just make sure it is selected.
Metering Mode
Leave this set to the default multi-metering option. This tells the camera to measure exposure across the entire frame.
Dynamic Range Boost
Turn this off.
While Dynamic Range Boost can increase highlight retention, it limits you to 30p, increases rolling shutter, and disables slow motion. For most filmmaking scenarios, it is not worth the trade-offs.
Dual Native ISO
Leave this set to Auto. I will show a more precise way to control ISO manually later.
Synchro Scan
Leave this off unless you are dealing with flickering lights.
If you ever shoot under problematic LED lighting and cannot eliminate flicker by adjusting shutter speed normally, Synchro Scan allows extremely fine shutter adjustments to match the light refresh rate.
Shutter Speed Limiter
Turn this off. This is only useful for auto shutter modes, which we are not using.
Shutter Speed and ISO Display
The S1 II lets you display exposure in multiple ways:
- Shutter speed in fractions
- Shutter angle
- Gain in decibels
Unless you come from a broadcast background, I strongly recommend sticking with Seconds / ISO. It keeps things simple and predictable.
Shutter angle is useful in theory, but it adds unnecessary complexity for most shooters. If you ever feel overwhelmed, remember this rule:
Set your shutter speed to roughly double your frame rate, and you will be in good shape.
Lens Corrections and Filters
Turn off the following settings:
- Vignetting Compensation
- Color Shading Compensation
- Diffraction Compensation
- Filter Effects
These are all automatic corrections that can affect exposure or bake unwanted looks into your footage. Anything like this is better handled in post.
Recording Format and Resolution
File Format
Choose MOV, not MP4.
MP4 limits some of the camera’s higher-end features and reduces image quality. MOV gives you better codecs and more flexibility.
Image Area
Leave this set to Full most of the time.
Use APS-C mode if you need extra reach, such as filming from far away at an event. Pixel-by-pixel is rarely worth using.
Recording Quality
For general filmmaking, I recommend 5.9K at 24p as a starting point.
This gives you excellent detail, flexibility for reframing, and strong image quality. I cover frame rates and resolutions in detail in my course so you know exactly when to use each option.
Recording Quality My List
Use this feature to save your favorite frame rates and resolutions so you do not have to scroll through the full list every time.
Proxy Recording
If your computer struggles with high-resolution footage, enable Proxy Recording.
The camera will record full-quality video to your CFexpress card and a low-resolution proxy to the SD card. I recommend setting proxy quality to Low for smooth playback.
There is also a Real-Time LUT Proxy option, which is useful if you want an easy-to-edit version of your footage while preserving a flat master file.
Autofocus Settings
The S1 II has dramatically improved autofocus, and these settings matter a lot if you want it to look smooth and natural.
Subject Detection
Turn this on.
- Detection Subject: Human
- Target Parts: Eye / Face / Body
Autofocus Custom Settings (Video)
These are critical:
- AF Speed: -3
- AF Sensitivity: -2
This slows the autofocus down and makes it look far more natural for video.
Turn off the AF assist light. You do not want a light turning on while filming.
Audio Settings
Audio Levels Display
Turn this on and set it to Small so your screen stays uncluttered.
Sound Recording Level
Set this to Low. This helps prevent clipping.
Recording Level Adjust
Aim for peaks around -12 dB.
Wind Noise Cancel
Turn this off. Handle noise reduction in post for more control.
Mic Power
Leave this set to Mic + Power for most external microphones.
Display and Monitoring Tools
Histogram
Optional, but not my preferred exposure tool.
Grid Lines
If you use them, stick to the simple 3×3 grid.
Level Gauge
Turn this off by default. You can assign it to a custom button if needed.
Luminance Spot Meter
This is one of the most useful exposure tools on the S1 II.
It lets you check exposure at a specific point in your frame. I recommend enabling it and learning how to use it properly, especially when shooting log.
Custom Buttons and Controls
The S1 II allows deep customization of nearly every button and dial.
I do not recommend randomly changing these without a plan. In my course, I walk through:
- Which buttons to customize
- What to assign to each one
- How to build an efficient shooting layout
If you want a shortcut, the free preset download applies all of my recommended button mappings automatically.
Final Thoughts
The Panasonic S1 II is not a camera you can just turn on and expect to get the best results from. But once it is set up correctly, it is an absolute powerhouse for video.
If you want the fastest setup possible, download the free S1 II preset file and load it onto your camera. It applies all of these settings in seconds.
If you want to truly master the S1 II, understand why these settings matter, and learn how to adapt them for different types of shoots, check out my full Panasonic S1 II Pro Video Guide. It goes far deeper than a single blog post ever could.