So you’re thinking about getting into Super 8 filmmaking!
First of all, welcome. It’s a ton of fun, it looks incredible, and it will absolutely make you think differently about how you shoot video.
My name is Matt Johnson, and in this post I want to walk you through everything you actually need to know to get started filming in Super 8. Not the romanticized version, the practical version.
We’ll cover:
- What Super 8 cameras you should consider
- The single most important feature to look for in a camera
- Which film stocks to use, and when
- Where to send your film for processing and scanning
- And how much all of this realistically costs
This is a lot to cover, but by the end of this post, you’ll have a clear game plan.
And if you want an even faster overview, I’ve put together a free Super 8 Filming Cheat Sheet that walks you through recommended cameras, film stocks, and where to send everything.
Alright, let’s get into it.
The Tools You Need to Film in Super 8
First Things First: The Camera
Obviously, you need a Super 8 camera.
The good news is there’s a decent chance you already have access to one without realizing it. Super 8 cameras were wildly popular in the 60s, 70s, and 80s. Millions were sold, and once digital took over, most of them ended up sitting in attics and storage closets.
So ask around. Parents, grandparents, relatives. There’s a strong chance someone knows where one is. Or you’ll end up like me, with an uncle who swears he has one somewhere but can never actually find it.
If you can get a camera this way, it’s obviously the cheapest option. Free is hard to beat.
Buying a Camera Secondhand
If the family route doesn’t work out, your next option is the secondhand market. Think eBay, Craigslist, flea markets, or antique stores.
Super 8 cameras can be surprisingly cheap, but there’s a catch. Just because someone is selling a camera doesn’t mean it actually works.
Batteries could be corroded. The motor might be dead. Any number of things could be wrong. Buying this way is a gamble.
If you go this route, look for listings that say the camera has been tested and is working. Even then, be aware that “tested” usually means the seller put batteries in it and pressed the trigger. It does not mean they shot film and had it processed.
If possible, message the seller and ask how it was tested.
Refurbished Cameras (The Safe but Expensive Option)
If you want to guarantee that your camera works, you have a couple of better options.
The first is buying a refurbished Super 8 camera from Pro8mm. They’re one of the biggest names in the Super 8 space, and they sell refurbished cameras ranging from about $700 up to $3,600.
That’s significantly more than eBay prices, but what you’re paying for is reliability. The camera works. Period.
Etsy (Yes, Really)
The final option, and the one I personally chose, is Etsy.
Yes, the same Etsy that sells handmade sweaters and mugs also sells Super 8 cameras.
There are quite a few sellers refurbishing cameras there. I bought mine from MonsterFlips USA for about $450. He refurbishes a wide range of Super 8 cameras at different price points, which makes it much easier to find something within your budget.
So why did I choose Etsy over Pro8mm?
It comes down to one very important technical feature.
The Most Important Feature in a Super 8 Camera
While all Super 8 cameras use the same film, the biggest difference between them is whether or not they have a built-in light meter.
This matters a lot.
The light meter tells the camera how bright your scene is and automatically adjusts the aperture to compensate. If there is one thing you want in a Super 8 camera, it’s this.
Think about shooting digitally. You look at your screen, see the image is overexposed, and adjust your aperture. Now imagine doing that without a screen or a reliable viewfinder.
That’s what shooting Super 8 without a light meter is like.
If your camera doesn’t have one, you’ll need to carry a separate handheld light meter, measure the light, and manually set your aperture every time. That’s slow, clunky, and honestly the opposite of what Super 8 was designed for.
Super 8 was meant to be simple. Anyone could pick it up and shoot. Hand your grandma a Super 8 camera and she can figure it out. Hand her a light meter and… not so much.
This is why I recommend buying a camera with a built-in light meter. From Pro8mm, that starts around $700. On Etsy, you can often find one for much less.
Which Camera Should You Buy?
You may have noticed I still haven’t told you which Super 8 camera to buy.
That’s intentional.
As long as the camera works and has a built-in light meter, you’re good to go. Brand and model really don’t matter as much as collectors would have you believe.
Yes, cameras like the Braun Nizo are beautiful. But at the end of the day, they’re all shooting the same Super 8 film.
Which brings us to film.
Understanding Super 8 Film Stocks (Without the Confusion)
Film can feel overwhelming at first. You’ll hear terms like Ektachrome, Vision, and Tri-X, and it’s easy to overthink it.
Here’s the good news. If you just want to have fun shooting Super 8, there are really only three film stocks you need to care about.
They’re all made by Kodak:
- 50D
- 200T
- 500T
What the Numbers Mean
Think of ISO on a digital camera. Higher ISO means more sensitivity to light.
On Super 8 cameras, there is no ISO button. The ISO is determined entirely by the film.
- 50D = ISO 50
- 200T = ISO 200
- 500T = ISO 500
That’s what you’re working with.
What the D and T Mean
Just like ISO, white balance is also baked into the film.
- D stands for Daylight
- T stands for Tungsten
50D is balanced for bright daylight. It’s perfect for shooting outdoors in the sun.
200T and 500T are balanced for tungsten lighting, which is typical warm indoor light. Because indoor lighting is darker than sunlight, these films also have higher ISO values.
Which Film Should You Use?
Here’s the simplest way to think about it.
If you’re outdoors, use 50D.
If you’re indoors, use a tungsten stock. Between 200T and 500T, I usually recommend 500T. Indoor spaces are almost always darker than you think, and 500T gives you more flexibility.
What If You Go Indoors and Outdoors?
Some Super 8 cameras have a switch with a sun icon and a lightbulb icon. This toggles an internal filter.
If your camera has this, you can shoot tungsten film outdoors by flipping the switch to daylight. It engages a filter that corrects the color so things don’t look weird.
This makes life much easier.
One Big Difference Between Film and Digital
Unlike memory cards, film is a one-time use.
Each Super 8 cartridge is 50 feet long. At 18 frames per second, that gives you about three minutes of recording time.
That’s it.
No letting the camera roll and hoping something cool happens. You need to be intentional. Plan your shots. Think before you press record.
Where to Buy Film
Film has a shelf life, like milk. You want fresh film whenever possible.
I usually buy mine from B&H. Once it arrives, I keep it in the refrigerator until I’m ready to shoot. Keeping it cold helps slow deterioration.
You can experiment with expired film later, but when you’re starting out, buy new.
Processing and Scanning Your Film
Once you shoot your film, you still can’t watch it yet.
First, it needs to be processed. This is where a lab uses chemicals to develop the film.
Companies like Pro8mm and Spectra Film and Video offer processing. Pro8mm even sells film with processing included, which is convenient.
I personally use Spectra Film and Video because it’s cheaper. You fill out a form on their website, print it, box it up with your film, and ship it to California.
After processing, the film looks like an old reel. To actually edit it, you need it scanned.
Why I Use a Separate Scanning Company
Instead of scanning with Pro8mm or Spectra, I use a company called The Negative Space, run by Nicki Coyle in Colorado.
Two reasons:
- She’s incredibly knowledgeable and helpful.
- She owns a high-end scanner that can scan Super 8 up to 6.5K.
Spectra sends the processed film directly to Nicki. She scans it and sends me a download link to a massive, high-quality ProRes file. We’re talking 50GB for three minutes of footage.
It looks incredible!
Compared to other options, her pricing is also wildly better. A 5K scan with a download link costs $20.
Yes, really.
UPDATE: NICKI NOW OFFERS PROCESSING & SCANNING! REACH OUT TO HER FOR CURRENT PRICING AND AVAILABILITY.
How I Like My Film Scanned
I choose:
- High-resolution scans (5120×3840)
- Flat scans so I can color grade myself
- Overscan, not cropped
Overscan shows the edges of the film and sprocket holes. It looks amazing and gives you that unmistakable Super 8 feel.
How Much Does Super 8 Cost?
Short answer: it’s not cheap.
Every step costs money.
Film: ~$40
Shipping: ~$10
Processing: $25
Scanning: $20
All in, you’re looking at about $100 per roll, for roughly three minutes of footage.
Retro isn’t cheap.
Ways to Save Money
- Ship multiple rolls at once to save on shipping
- Buy film directly from Spectra for slightly cheaper prices
- Take advantage of film + processing bundles when they make sense
Final Thoughts
Super 8 filmmaking isn’t cheap, but it’s incredibly rewarding.
It forces you to slow down, be intentional, and actually think before you shoot. And the results have a character that’s almost impossible to replicate digitally.
If you want a condensed version of everything in this post, grab the free Super 8 Filming Cheat Sheet.
And most importantly, have fun with it. Super 8 is supposed to be fun.
Thanks for reading, and enjoy filming with film!